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Well here is my 1st real set of mechs that I think are ready for public viewing. I went with the SLDF Eridani Lighthorse's 151st Regiment (Hi Lancer!). The warhammer is one I got from Malin.

Let me know what you think (try not to be too brutal)

They look good!

Hmm, makes me wanna go get a digital camera so I can take some pics of my crazy minis. Like my HOT PINK Grim Reaper w/a anti-freeze green cockpit canopy.

TD

Buff,

Man, are you kidding- brutal? Those minis look really great. You have a great hand for detail & weathering effects, nothing I have produced comes even close. What brand of decals are those- the Fighting Piranha ones? Are the warning stripes decals, or did you paint them?

All mini painters here- could you guys tell me what paints you like to use? My collection of Polly S is about shot and I don't think you can buy them anymore. I am leaning toward adopting the Citadel paints though the Reaper stuff seems to be good and a little cheaper. Some friends of mine like the Tamiya acrylics, but I find it's a little "hotter" mix and wasn't too compatible when I tried to use it in conjunction with another paint- not mixing them, just using it over the top of another in a camo scheme. I would appreciate any advice.

Again- great job on those ELH machines.

I use some Ral Partha paints from a 'Summer' set I bought a long time ago, but mostly I use Plaid ('Folk Art' and 'Apple Barrel Colors') water-based acrylics that I buy at Wally World in the Crafts section.

I did buy some Ral Partha 'Will O' Wisp' GLOW-IN-THE-DARK paint specifically for my other Grim Reaper, but I haven't got around to painting it yet.

TD

Decals are all Fighting Paranha Graphics

Paints are Folk Art brand you can find for $.99 at Hobby Lobby or Micheles and stuff. I cut them down a bit with a 4 to 1 solution called magic wash. 4 parts water 1 part Future Floor Finish. This cuts the pigmnent load down and allows better control of the color. I also makes the base coats go on thinner, it takes about 2-3 base coats to get it right.
Under the base coats I use Krylon primer. Once the base coats are dryed (about a day for each coat) I detail it out. I cheat and use a Technical drafting pen to detail in all the armor grooves. The Pro guys use really small paint brushes (2-3 hairs), see anything by Joe Frazer.

I dont like the parade colors. I mean I like them, I think a mech needs to look like a mech in the field. Look at how dirty the armor is in Iraq....the things are filthy. So I make mine look like they have been in the field.

After I detail out all the cracks and armor joints, I use a black wash...very, very thin. After that is dry, I dry brush a light color on for wear and tear. It might take you a while to find the right brush pressure and amount of paint on the brush. Take your time. Practice on a junk mech until your stroke.

I then decal the mechs and spray on 1 coat of Testors Dull Coat. This is a must as any sealer you use will EAT the decals. after the Dull Coat is dry, spray on Krylon Triple Thick Glaze. After that is dry add another coat of Testers Dull Coat and boom your done.

They look really nice. I missed the BT minis.

What is the last mech that resembles a Kodiak. The one under the Warhammer?

Never seen it before(well I probably haven't seen a lot of 'mechs before).

Buff,

Thanks for all of that info, you really put a lot of effort into them. Tell me, how did you know that floor finish would cut that paint?

Oshay uses citadel minatures paints and primer... on the very rare occasions he paints.

Out of thirty+ 'Mechs and tanks, I think I've got six painted... the rest are still in the blisters, heh.

Firemane wrote:Buff,

Thanks for all of that info, you really put a lot of effort into them. Tell me, how did you know that floor finish would cut that paint?

Aff Dat. Last night was eerily like listening to the paint dry, but different. LOL I almost dug out my models last night and started to putty seams, but I still had to get that drop outta my system.

Thanks,
Fethr

Firemain.....found this tip on a great mini painting web page:

Paintman Jay wrote:

Thinning Craft Paint

Recently, I have read a number of individuals experiences with the graininess of craft paint. While I do find it is grainy straight from the bottle, one way to alleviate this and usually eliminate it is to thin the paint. When I purchase a bottle of craft paint, open it up and top off with water to about 5mm from the top of the mouth (about 1/4 inch). Shake up the paint thoroughly and let sit for a day or two. Open up the bottle and again top it off to the same level. As the water is "absorbed" by the paint the level will drop, but less each time. It is the same principle that 1 cup of sugar and 1 cup of water when mixed will not give anywhere near 2 cups. Shake it up again and let sit. Continue this till the level no longer drops. At this point the paint is ready to use. As you use paint, add more water to thin it until you get a consistency you like. As you add water, more and more of the pigment is dissolved and the graininess will decrease with each application of water. Craft paints I recommend this for are Ceramcoat, Folkart, and Americana. Anita's should not be thinned as this increases the transparency of the paint and the paint is thin enough already. Besides, as noted in another article Anita's doesn't cover and is only useful for highlighting with requires a lot of dilution, plus I have not found it to be grainy straight from the bottle. If you can get Aleene's, you can thin it but only because it is way too thick as bought, not because there is any graininess to eliminate.

I'm going to give this a try as I have found this graininess problem also.
here is the URL for the page: http://paintman101.tripod.com/creativef ... /id11.html

Thanks for info, Buff. Let me know if you try that method & how it works.