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A few questions...

How many HDs total are plugged in to your MB (Including the new drive)?

If you have more than 1 HD connected, I recommend you unplug all HDs except for the one you want to install the OS to. Did you have your original C: drive connected when you installed on the newly acquired D: drive? If so, I am guessing that Windows made a dual boot setup so that you could access both drives?

What Windows version are you installing? (Win98? Win2000? Win XP?)

I dunno. I also have a 20 and an 80, with Windows XP on the 80 and Mandrake Linux on the 20. I had Lycoris Desktop LX on the 80, too, but recently wiped it and reformatted that section into a 25 GB chunk o' NTFS-formatted space called Drive F. Thanks to Mandrake, I have a nifty bootloader called LILO that lets me choose which OS to run at boot; otherwise it defaults to Linux (although I could change that if I wanted to).

Anyway, sounds like you need to adjust the jumper settings. I don't remember where or how to do this - on the actual HDs, maybe - but it seems like that's what I had to do to establish the master/slave relationship between the two HDs in this PC.

I look this stuff up on the net and figure out how to do it, then promptly forget how I did it. So, try looking up jumper settings for master/slave on your HDs. Try searching Google groups - that's where I find lots of answers to technical queries.

TD

It's at this point, we hardware engineers would like to recommend the following course of action:

1. Remove any side access panels. (No concern need be shown for operating temperature fluctuations causing change in circuitry parameters, as this can be calculated for in step 2 onwards)
2. Safety eyewear and hand protection should be worn at all times during step 3 onwards.
3. Remove fine calibration equipment marked "Hammer, ballpeine, 3lb"
(NB. Hammer, Toffee will not suffice for the remaining steps, you will be very disappointed with the results!! :roll: :lol: )
4. Proceed to adjust and fine tune any part of the computer - exterior or interior - which you personally find offensive, making best use of a vertical OR horizontal wide-arced swinging motion. A wide, balanced stance and broad shouldered gait will greatly assist in producing greater speed and therefore momentum creating a contact worthy of the tool being wielded.
5. All observers & students should be wearing appropriate protective equipment.
6. Continue with step 4. above until a pleasing result is obtained.
7. For those who enjoy a challenge the World Guiness Record for a standard ATX tower case is approximately 4.6 inches in overall height (without removing peripheral contents!) :shock: :roll:
8. A good measure of success however, is a content, relaxed sensation post-calibration for the engineer. Stress levels should barely register, and this should be indicated by a reduction of noise & aggressive behaviour).

Yeah, I hate Techno! Those Germans can sure make some wacky music. :lol:

Ok...what is it that you want to do exactly?

Do you want to salvage your old install onto the new 80G drive?

Do you want a fresh new install on the 80G drive and the old drive as a seperate slave drive?

If you are looking to use the new drive as your main C: drive, here's what I would do.

1) Unplug all Hard drives except the new drive. Set the jumper on the new 80G drive to solo Master (or no jumper at all if its a Western Digital drive) so that the MB thinks it's the only drive connected. Connect it to the Primary IDE on the MB.

2) Setup in the BIOS to boot to CD ROM, insert the windows XP Home CD in the CD drive, boot up the computer and do a fresh install of Windows XP Home on the 80G drive (reformat, reinstall, etc..)

3) Once the install is complete, reboot and make sure everything works with the new 80G drive. Do NOT activate windows until EVERYTHING (drivers, new hardware, utilities, etc..) is installed.

4) Once you determine that the computer is running as it should, (after you shut down the computer obviously) set the jumper on the new 80G drive to MASTER, set the jumper on the old 20G drive to SLAVE, hookup the old drive, reboot and Windows should detect a new drive (your old 20G drive) and all the data on that drive "should" be there. If you know what files you want to keep (if any), cut and paste the files to the new 80G drive and then your set.

Now, if all you want to do is have the same exact data on the new 80G drive that you have on the 20G drive, I recommend using Norton Ghost. Simply Ghost the 20G drive data to the new 80G drive, setup the jumpers accordingly, and viola, your done. (Hopefully)

Hope this helped.

make a backup first!

just edit the boot.ini file on the c:\ drive. remove the reference to the d: drive windows install...which will probably have the text of "disk(1)" in the line referring to it. see below...it might also have multi(1) instead of multi(0), but get rid of that line (that refers to the new install). you can boot to windows to do this.


[operating systems]
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS="Microsoft Windows XP Professional" /fastdetect /NoExecute=OptIn
multi(0)disk(1)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS="Microsoft Windows XP Professional" /fastdetect /NoExecute=OptIn



-also, make sure the default line looks similar to this:

default=multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS

then, when you boot into you normal, old install you can delete all the files on the d: drive (with the expcetion of a few, but that is o.k.).

if you have doubts, post your boot.ini file here and i will post the new test of what it should look like.

I take it then, you've all lost your sense of humour . . . . . . . :shock:

Speaking of, when I first saw this thread, I thought "of course there are problems, Techno shouldn't even count as music! It sucks!!"

I believe this thread should be titled Tech Problems. ;)

it does not matter which drive is first on the cable...

like i said, if you want to post or e-mail me your boot.ini file first, i will fix it for you and send it back.

Steel, just do me a favour, and explain that one away for me, about the IDE cable - I was always led to believe that the Master should be connected to the 'end' of the cable. Interested cos the info can be useful for next time around if I have any problems with regard to that.

it is a simple explanation. it does not matter which device is first or at the end of the cable. it can matter what end of the cable is plugged into the mainboard though. the faster capability cables will typically have a blue connector (sometimes red or yellow to be fancy) and that end should go minto the mainboard.

Always be wary if there are any cuts in the IDE cable...that can indicate that only or the other should go in a given spot.
Generally, if the cable is unlabeled it doesn't matter. If it has "MASTER" and "SLAVE" printed next to connectors, then I listen to it. Better safe...

Thanx guys, much obliged. Not that I don't have a clue what I'm doing. But it does no harm to have someone explain something to you, if you think they know something you could benefit from. Cheers.